Step back into the Showa era! A warm-hearted old downtown stroll with Tora-san
(General Incorporated Association Katsushika City Tourism Association)

The charm of Taishakuten Sando in a nutshell

Famed as the setting of the “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” (Tora-san) films, this approach road lets you encounter the nostalgic scenery of old Japan and its warm human touch.
 

Welcome to Taishakuten Sando, brimming with heartwarming shitamachi charm

The moment I passed through the ticket gates at Keisei Shibamata Station, I was wrapped in a curious sensation as if the clock’s hands had begun to turn backward.
Before me stretched a nostalgic scene steeped in the spirit of the Showa era. As you start along the roughly 200-meter sando leading to Taishakuten (Daikyoji Temple), the sweet aroma drifting from long-established dango shops, the noren curtains of river-fish restaurants, and the lively calls of souvenir vendors fill the air.
Greeted with a cheerful “Irasshai!” and a smile from the shopkeepers, you can’t help but smile back.
It’s a town alive with warm human kindness, where it feels as though Tora-san, the hero of “Otoko wa Tsurai yo,” might pop up at any moment. This time I walked the sando myself, snacking as I went, to truly feel the charm of this neighborhood.

Three Recommended Highlights of the Taishakuten Sando

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    1. Exquisite! Taste and compare the famous "kusa dango" (mugwort rice dumplings)

    A local told us, "If you come to Shibamata, you have to start by eating kusa dango." Along the sando, multiple kusa dango shops line the street, each with its own character.
    We first visited Takagiya Shinise, founded in the first year of the Meiji era. One bite and the rich aroma of mugwort fills your mouth. The mildly sweet bean paste highlights the chewy texture of the dumplings. There are seats out front for resting, so you can take your time and enjoy them with tea.
    Next we stopped by Monzen Toraya, which was actually used in the filming of the movie "Otoko wa Tsurai yo" (It’s Tough Being a Man). "This is where Tora-san filmed," the owner told us proudly. Their kusa dango has a firm springiness and becomes more flavorful the more you chew.
    At Yoshinoya, we were able to watch artisans at the storefront rolling each dumpling by hand from a large mass. Freshly made kusa dango is a deep green with an intense mugwort flavor. "We pride ourselves on the strong flavor," one of the artisans said with a smile.
    Lastly, we visited Kameya Honpo, the dango shop closest to Taishakuten. With no off-notes and a gentle taste, it was comforting and delicious, just as the owner said: "We aim for a flavor loved by everyone."
    As you stroll the sando while enjoying the differences in flavor from shop to shop, time flies by.

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    2. Immerse yourself in Tora-san’s world

    As soon as we exited Shibamata Station, the statue of Tora-san with his suitcase caught our eye. "You haven’t really been to Shibamata unless you take a photo here," a passing couple told us. Indeed, many visitors enjoy taking commemorative photos with the statue.
    Walking along the sando, we could sense Tora-san’s presence everywhere. In front of Monzen Toraya, we found a sign that read, "This is an actual filming location." Inside the building, the staircase used during filming is said to remain.
    At the Shibamata Tourist Information Center, another Tora-san character statue stands, and the place was bustling with people taking photos while picking up tourist maps. "Even if you’re not a Tora-san fan, once you feel the warmth of this town, you end up wanting to watch the films," a staff member told us with a smile.

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    3. Stroll through streets alive with history and culture

    What surprised us as we walked the sando was that wooden buildings constructed from the Meiji through the Taisho periods are still in active use. Selected by the national government as an Important Cultural Landscape under "The Cultural Landscape of Katsushika Shibamata," these streets are truly living history.
    At the end of the sando stood the magnificent Nitenmon gate of Taishakuten (Daikyoji). "It enshrines the plank-honzon image of Taishakuten discovered in An’ei 8, that is, 1779," a local who had come to pray told us. In particular, on "Kōshin Day," which comes once every 60 days, the principal image is unveiled and the entire sando is enveloped in the lively atmosphere of a festival.
    Along the sando, long-established shops that exude history line the street, such as Sanbutsuya, which deals in Shinto ritual implements and Buddhist altars. Taking time to stroll and chat with the shop owners, we could truly feel the depth of the culture and traditions this town has carefully preserved.

Fees and Discount Information

Item Details
Fees Free (you are free to stroll the sando. Food and shopping at individual stores are extra.)
Discounts None

Other Recommended Information

Time your visit for Kōshin Day!

During our visit, locals recommended, "Come on Kōshin Day next time. The atmosphere is completely different." Occurring once every 60 days, "Kōshin Day" is a special festival day for Taishakuten. On this day, the principal image is unveiled, stalls line the street, and the sando becomes even more vibrant than usual. Dharma talks and limited-edition goshuin stamps are also available, letting you experience Shibamata’s culture more deeply. In 2025, Kōshin Days fall six times: February 20, April 21, June 20, August 19, October 18, and December 17.

Showa-retro wonderland: "Shibamata Haikara Yokocho"


Near the entrance to the sando, we found a particularly eye-catching building: Shibamata Haikara Yokocho and the Toy Museum. Step inside and you’re transported to the Showa era. Nostalgic dagashi snacks and retro game machines line the space, and we heard people exclaiming, "I played this when I was a kid!" It’s a space that people of all ages can enjoy across generations.

Enjoy even more street-food treats

Beyond kusa dango, the sando is packed with enticing foods. At the long-established Funabashiya, we bought kuzumochi so popular there’s often a line. Its jiggly texture and the exquisite balance of black sugar syrup and kinako roasted soybean flour are outstanding. Meanwhile, a savory aroma wafts from river-fish restaurants, where you can savor traditional Edo-style flavors.
As we enjoyed nibbling while strolling, we realized this is the Shibamata way to have fun.

Best season

When we asked locals, "When do you recommend visiting?" they replied, "The cherry blossoms in spring and the autumn foliage are especially beautiful. But the bustle around New Year and on Kōshin Days is hard to pass up, too." Visiting on a weekday morning this time, it was relatively quiet, and being able to chat leisurely with shop owners became a fond memory. Depending on the time of day you visit, the sando shows different sides of itself.

 

BASIC INFORMATION

Name Taishakuten Sando
(Taishakuten Sando)
Address Shibamata 7-chome, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo Access
Phone 03-3650-9876
(General Incorporated Association Katsushika City Tourism Association)
Official URL http://shibamata.net/
Opening Hours Open 24 hours (hours vary by store)

MAP & ACCESS

Immediately outside Shibamata Station on the Keisei Kanamachi Line. About a 3-minute walk from the station to Taishakuten
Phone:03-3650-9876
(General Incorporated Association Katsushika City Tourism Association)

Nearby Stores

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